Against coffee-shop tourism
An unfashionable take from a long-time resident.
It's not prudish to say the centre deserves better than this.
I don't care what you smoke. I care what we've decided is acceptable on streets where children walk to school.
What follows is the version we'd tell a friend who just moved here.
The short version
Pick one neighbourhood. Stay long enough to be bored. The good bits are on the second loop, never the first.
If you only have one rule, make it this: walk further than you planned.
Where to start
Most of what follows assumes you're willing to skip a sight or two. Amsterdam rewards the visitor who picks fewer things and stays longer at each one.
Keep reading
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The Best Bars in the Jordaan
The best bars in the Jordaan — a crawl through Amsterdam's coziest neighbourhood, from centuries-old brown cafés to a James Bond cocktail den.
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A First-Timer's Guide to Amsterdam Nightlife
A first-timer's guide to Amsterdam nightlife — the key going-out areas, what kind of night each offers, and how to do it like a local.
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The Best Wine Bars in Amsterdam
The best wine bars in Amsterdam — from the city's natural-wine pioneer to a champagne bar by Dam Square and a winery that makes its own in Noord.