A field guide, by people who live here.

The city deserved better than the recycled top-10 lists that dominate the first page of search results. Most travel writing about Amsterdam is either too polished — clearly written from a desk in another country — or too cynical, with locals complaining about tourists. We wanted a third option: warm, specific, well-photographed, and willing to disagree with the consensus.

Neighbourhoods, restaurants, hotels, museums, nightlife, events, and the practicalities of living here. We also cover Amsterdam's legal adult-entertainment scene — the Red Light District, coffeeshops, clubs — in a separate, age-gated After dark section, because it's part of the city and pretending otherwise helps no one.

• We pay for our own meals, rooms and tickets. No comped stays, no press trips.
• We disclose affiliate links. When you book through a partner, we may earn a small commission — that never changes a recommendation. See our affiliate disclosure.
• We update, not archive. Restaurants change chefs, hotels change owners. We revisit and revise.
• We say what we'd skip. A guide that only ever recommends is just advertising.

A small editorial team based in Centrum and Oost, with regular contributors in Noord and De Pijp. We've collectively lived in Amsterdam for over forty years. We disagree about fries, agree about Sunday cafés, and we're still arguing about the best stroopwafel.

Tips, corrections, partnership questions, or just want to argue about the fries? Reach us via the contact page.