Bougainville

Bougainville looks straight onto Dam Square from Hotel TwentySeven and dresses for the view: velvet, brass and one of the most opulent dining rooms in the city. The starred kitchen runs a modern European line with Asian accents — kingfish with crisped skin, duck, a blackberry dessert with a fan club — and, rarer at this level, a full vegetarian tasting menu that guests celebrate rather than tolerate. Open seven evenings, which makes it the dependable choice for a starred dinner when the calendar is stubborn.