Vinkeles

Set in the vaulted 18th-century bakery of hotel The Dylan, Vinkeles pairs two-star French cooking with the kind of service diners compare — favourably — to three-star houses across Europe. The pigeon is the dish with a following; oysters, turbot and the amuse parade around it justify the tasting-menu commitment, and the sommelier's Burgundy instincts are worth surrendering to. Intimate, candle-lit and historical (there's a booklet about the building at your seat). Evenings only, closed Sunday–Monday; this is occasion territory.