Wils

At Wils everything meets fire: the open kitchen burns through a tasting menu whose courses are listed as just three ingredients each — an act of confidence the plates back up with smoke, char and depth. Chef Joris Bijdendijk (also of RIJKS) built the room into the Olympic quarter's monumental architecture; counter seats face the flames. Note the practicalities: reservation-led with no published walk-in hours, so book via the site. The bakery-café next door shares the DNA at daytime prices.