Zoldering

Zoldering inverts the usual order: the wine list — pages deep, from €40 gems to first-growth Bordeaux — leads, and the starred French kitchen composes to meet it. The room under centuries-old beams stays deliberately casual; you can commit to the full menu or perch at the bar with a glass and the bite-sized snacks that show off the kitchen's precision. Locals rank it top-three in the city with the confidence of people who eat out constantly. Closed Sundays; Saturdays open early at four.