Lars

Out on the Danzigerkade among the Houthavens' new architecture, Lars cooks a starred tasting menu with Asian inflections and an eye for detail that extends to chairs with pockets for your phone. The vegetarian "Green Lars" menu is no afterthought — gnocchi that convert sceptics — and the beurre-noisette butter is the kind of thing kitchens get asked to share recipes for. Still under-discovered, bookable where the famous rooms aren't, and drivers rejoice: parking is free if you ask. Closed Sunday–Monday.