Harlem

Harlem trades on the wordplay — Haarlemmerstraat, Harlem — and delivers a mood more than a strict cuisine: jerk chicken, enchiladas, black-eyed peas and cabbage in portions that mean it, cocktails that keep flowing, and soul and R&B setting the tempo. New Yorkers note it's its own interpretation rather than the genuine article, and that's fair; taken on its own terms it's a warm, easy hangout that runs later than almost anything nearby — until three on weekend nights. Come for the vibe, stay because the kitchen's better than it needs to be.