Lalibela

A pioneer — Lalibela was the country's first Ethiopian restaurant, and decades on it still teaches Amsterdam how this cuisine works: combination platters ladled onto shared injera, eaten by hand, ideally with one spiced and one mild half so the table gets the full spectrum. Mango and coconut beers are the right accompaniment; the coffee ceremony the right ending. Service runs at Ethiopian tempo, which is to say unhurried — plan accordingly. Evenings only, budget-friendly, and best with a group willing to get their hands involved.