Oaxaca

Oaxaca plays the refined end of the Mexican spectrum: guacamole mashed tableside, a serious mezcal and tequila program (the mezcal espresso martini is the sleeper hit), tasting menus, and tacos — the soft-shell crab above all — built from conspicuously good ingredients. Travellers bound for Mexico use it as a preview and report back that it holds up. It costs accordingly and service can wobble when the room fills, so aim for early sittings. When it's on form, this is the centre's most convincing Mexican table.