Ferilli's Caffè

Ferilli's is less a restaurant than a Beethovenstraat institution of seeing and being seen: the terrace is the street's front row, the room hums with regulars, and owner Carlo works the floor with old-school host energy — trust his recommendations. The kitchen does generous Italian comfort (fresh tomato paccheri, grilled pulpo, a rib-eye with a local reputation) rather than refined cucina, and consistency can vary with the crowd's size. Take it for what it is — the neighbourhood's social clubhouse with good pasta — and it's a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon.