In 't Vierde Baarsje

This is the address Amsterdammers describe with the word "gem" and then hesitate to share. The chef-owner cooks French-leaning classics — oysters, onion soup, a chateaubriand stroganoff with a fan club — and has a habit of sending out unannounced extras: quail eggs, crab salad, house bread with fresh butter. His partner runs the floor like you're guests, not covers, with a lounge downstairs for the aperitif. Closed early in the week, and the room is small; book, dress for an occasion, and let the house lead.

At a glance

For French cooking in De Baarsjes, In 't Vierde Baarsje at Surinamestraat 32 is one of the addresses in this guide. Closed on Monday and Tuesday; the earliest opening time is 12:00. Check vierdebaarsje.nl for current opening times and the menu.