This is the address Amsterdammers describe with the word "gem" and then hesitate to share. The chef-owner cooks French-leaning classics — oysters, onion soup, a chateaubriand stroganoff with a fan club — and has a habit of sending out unannounced extras: quail eggs, crab salad, house bread with fresh butter. His partner runs the floor like you're guests, not covers, with a lounge downstairs for the aperitif. Closed early in the week, and the room is small; book, dress for an occasion, and let the house lead.

In 't Vierde Baarsje

Where to find it