VanOost

Hidden inside the grand Pillows Maurits at the Park hotel, VanOost is Oost's special-occasion address: a small dining room, tasting menus in meat and vegetarian versions, and combinations surprising enough that courses become conversation. The wine pairings are chosen with real care, and the adjoining Fitz's cocktail bar makes the correct prologue. Open Wednesday to Saturday evenings only, with limited covers — this is deliberate, small-scale cooking, so plan and book well ahead. For the level, the bill remains friendlier than its peers in the canal belt.