Calisto

Calisto cooks Italian with a modern accent: cloud-light focaccia with fennel butter, porchetta balanced with sharp acidity, squid-ink and duck-ragù pastas that regulars call the best plates on the street, and a tiramisu twisted with salt and bitterness until it's new again. The small bar is the insider seat — full view of the room, easy conversation. Card-only, evening-focused with weekend lunches, and reservations are genuinely necessary. A serious kitchen wearing casual clothes.